Day 5 - Geiranger to Molde

I was the first to rise the next morning Chris had expressed a desire to sleep in and do that “relaxing” stuff that some people seem to enjoy doing on holiday. I attempted stealth as I headed into the kitchen/dinning/living room (but botched the stealth part by bashing my knee as I climbed down from the top bunk). I pulled back the curtains, and saw that the weather had turned. I pulled on my canvas shoes, and headed straight out of the door in the shorts and t-shirt that I had slept in to confirm that the day was indeed, glorious and warm (that is warm given that I was mucking about in snow, the previous day but a few kilometres from where I stood). The fjord, lit by the full brilliance of the sun, was stunning. Our cabin being directly beside the shore, offered all manner of appealing views, so I sallied forth with camera and tripod to bask and photograph.


The above is taken from our porch.
After a few minutes of reflection I decided that Chris would never forgive me if he were to miss this, and conscious that the weather could turn sour again at any time, I decided to rouse him. On seeing the fjord and surrounding peaks glistening in the bright sunshine Chris agreed that I had indeed made the right choice.


After taking in the cool air we got to preparing to head out. We cleaned our boots on the porch, prepared sandwiches for lunch and packed our gear. As we went we listening to music, our strictly classics only selection included ‘Man or Muppet’ (winner of this years ‘best original song’ Oscar) and ‘Dare’ by Stan Bush.

We debated for a time whether to attempt a new walk, hang around the shore or revisit one of the previous day’s viewpoints now that the weather was on our side. Conscious that our ship as far as Bodø was departing at 13:30, and that the only way to go aboard was via M/S Geiranger which acts as her tender, which would likely cast off ahead of that , we decided that a route we knew would be preferable. We had a better idea of whether we were likely to get anywhere worthwhile, and being as we were re-tracing our steps, wouldn’t waste the time one usually spends on navigation. So we headed back for the first view point that we had visited, which has been popularised on many postcards and holiday brochures.


Chris, Duck and I beside the fjord before setting off for the day.

As we took the walk back along the fjord into town, before begging to ascend the slope, we saw strange currents playing upon the surface of the water. In the twilight of the night before I had taken them to be jumping fish, but in the light of day they were tiny white crested waves. From the higher elevations the day before we had noticed definite patterns of apparently still water amongst the lightly rippled water of the rest of the fjord; the still watering spreading out like the branches of a tree from a “root” near the shore line. We have no idea why (though naturally this did not keep us from wild speculation and blind guesses); it was an added dimension of intrigue to an already sublime experience.


Panorama taken from one the slightly lower viewing platforms on a hairpin in the road.


From the wharf it took us just under an hour to make the steep walk, now carrying our full packs having checked out from our cabin. We took essentially the same photograph as the day before, but this time less rain, more rucksack.


Although ducks traditionally prefer the rain, I think the sunshine better suits ‘Soaring Soul Duck’s disposition. The scenery had certainly been powerful the day before, the atmosphere hanging with cool drizzle and cool mist from the waterfalls, but it was todays sunshine that really brought out the beauty and scale of the place.


We took a lunch of basic sandwiches once again, but it is quite remarkable how an appetite stoked by hard walking, breathtaking scenery and a warming rays of sunshine (just enough to take the edge of the wind chill) can enhance the enjoyment of a simple, frugal repast. By this point we had cumulatively ascended over 1.3Km; the last 300m with our full packs, so our appetites were well enhanced.


The attempt to disguise this calcified Troll is pitiful; we see through your attempts to distort the truth.

After the sandwich stop we headed back to the wharf. The Captain of the tender hadn’t particularly expected to take on passengers (there were only a handful of people in town to begin with) so the gang plank wasn’t set up. Norway has a slightly more relaxed attitude towards ‘health and safety’ than the cottling that we have become accustomed to in Britain; so we were beckoned to jump the (admittedly fairly small) gap from the quay to the boat (rucksacks and all).
When not acting as a tender, MS Geiranger conducts senic tours of the fjords, so has large windows which acted like a green house. We relaxed in the warm interior of the boat, out of the wind, until the sound of the ships cannon heralded the arrival of Polarlys.

MS Polarlys viewed from the tender; she is seven decks high, but still dwarfed the surrounding peaks.


Alongside.

When we boarded we were conducted from the cargo bay (where we boarded) to the reception. Only three other passengers joined at Gerenger, all headed to Ålesund, In fact there was some confusion as the officer who conducted us to reception, assumed that we were day passengers, as it is quite uncommon for passengers to embark on a long voyage from Geiranger. As those who know me will attest; if there is a way to be atypical I can usually find it.

Our cabin assignment was the same number that we had had aboard Nordnorge. When we entered we were greeted by a beautiful view of the fjord through our port-hole and were very pleased indeed... that is, until we realised that the ship was conducting a lifeboat drill and that when the boats were hoisted back into their normal positions for storage they sit directly in front of the porthole. Even so, the natural light in the cabin is better than a truly “inside” cabin. In fact, because of a range of factors, most particularly the size of the vessel and the number of boats she must carry (remembering that she is a passenger ferry, not a cruise ship, so not all passengers have cabins) relatively few of the cabins on ships in the Hurtigruten fleet have unobstructed views.


Chris headed off to the information desk and shop, whilst I stood out on the front of the ship to take in more of the fjord. The wind was much calmer than on our voyage down the fjord aboard Nordnorge, so I stood out on the front and took in the sight of sea-birds swooping low across the water (with no need for a jacket or sweater). The many waterfalls were also that much more picturesque on the bright day, the fine spray of droplets emanating from the higher reaches picked out by the sun’s rays.

When we returned to our cabin, we both spent a period ‘checking our eyelids for holes’, as we were concerned that they may have suffered some damage during our walking.


Our second ship the Polarlys, is one of the newest in Hurtigruten‘s fleet, however her interior is rather more austere than that of Nordlys (but at least the power assisted doors still work properly). None the less she is a comfortable vessel, the third Hurtigruten to bear the name (I rather like that the bar on Deck 7 has half models of the previous ships hung on the wall, much like the Enterprise D observation lounge).


In the early evening, around 18:15, we went ashore during the ships brief call at Ålesund (it is called at both before and after the ship visits Geiranger, as it is at the mouth of the series of fjords that lead to the small village). There isn’t really much that can be done in a few minute long visit, but the very ‘Norwegian looking’ buildings make a pleasant sight against the region’s mountains.

After our brief spell ashore Chris, feeling unwell, took some paracetamol and retired to bed where he remained for the duration of the evening (I just occasionally disturbing him by sneaking in for fresh laptop batteries and the like).

As I catch up on a few days worth of blog entries; converting from my rough notes to its ‘proper’ journal form, I’m sat out on the sun deck of M/S Polarlys in a t-shirt, warmed by the bright sunshine that has stayed with us all day. The only irritation is that smoking is permitted anywhere on the deck (and from observation seems worryingly popular here in Norway). The few fluffy white clouds that are around cast stark shadows on the snow covered peaks that surround us. I’m glad that I decided not to bring my camera to the deck; had I done so I would doubtless have been trying to photograph the scenery around me, however capturing the essence of this experience in a photograph would be an exercise in futility. My energies are better directed into this journal, though I fear putting this experience into words is beyond my skill.


Later as the sun descended the snowy peaks were bathed in appealing shades of salmon-pink and orange as we entered the prolonged Norwegian twilight.


Late in the evening we made a brief call at Molde, where we were in dock alongside the Hurtigruten MS Richard With (lower right of the picture); the newest ship of the fleet (named for the company’s founder). Richard With should have left ahead of us, but she appeared to be in some difficulty; her starboard side ‘man overboard’ launch was away and as we left it could be seen in the water near to the stern (possibly inspecting for damage).

As I continued to work on my notes and pictures in the ship’s cafe’ on deck 4, live music from the Deck 7 piano lounge drifted down to me through the ships 4 deck atrium (a neat flourish that MS Nordnorge lacked). The choice of tunes was, on this occasion, altogether more appealing; I noted Aerosmith - ‘Come together’, Cyndy Lawper’s – ‘True Colours’ and latterly Radio Head’s ‘Creep’ as particularly interesting choices. A pleasant rounding out to a very full day.